18th Century Style Tenon Saws – Part 2

Note: The content of this post has been moved to my new blog.  You can find the new posts here:







7 thoughts on “18th Century Style Tenon Saws – Part 2

  1. Hey I’m just curious because I plan on making some saws, did you have to harden the 1095 spring steel to a RC 50 or whatever it is supposed to be, or is the steel ready to sharpen as is ?

  2. I was reading on the Mcmaster Carr site and it said the wear resistent 1095 spring steel comes cold rolled, did you have to flatten it out or was this not an issue ?

    • No, the blue tempered 1095 spring steel comes in a coil. When you cut the metal strap on the coil, it will spring open like nobody’s business. It can actually be kind of dangerous if you are not careful because the edges can be quite sharp. I cut the strap off with the coil still in the box so I can then unroll it slowly and under control, otherwise it will just spring open. You might want to wear a good thick pair of leather gloves while unrolling it too.

  3. Also, how did you make the handle templates ? they look really nice and accurate to fit your hand I’m guessing, how did you go about that ?

    • The patterns were made by scaling a picture of a period saw from a book and then tracing the handle shape from that (go back to part I of this post to see the picture I used). Then I refined the curves so everything blended together and flowed well. The 18th century patterns, I feel, generally fit the hand better with a three finger grip. They will not allow you to squeeze a fourth finger in there like many of the 19th century and later handle designs will. I just think they are more comfortable, but not everyone agrees with me. Everyone’s hands are different.

  4. Well thank you Bob you are very helpful and I totally agree with you on the saws being more comfortable to use even thought I’ve never handled one before I can just imagine how they would feel

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