Quick Tip #12: Choosing Saws (Get Woodworking Week 2012)

Note: The content of this post has been moved to my new blog.  You can find the new post here:

http://brfinewoodworking.com/choosing-hand-saws/

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7 thoughts on “Quick Tip #12: Choosing Saws (Get Woodworking Week 2012)

  1. Thanks Bob, even with a few saws already this is great information (and definitely would have changed how I chose those first few saws).

  2. What a coincidence…I was just searching for what saws I should get first, came here to look at some older episodes, and here I get a brand new one!

    I’m a new woodworking (currently read “tool collector”), so thanks Bob!

  3. Great video and advice Bob. I am glad that you mentioned how to measure the saw plate rather than just going by height as it is far more a function of arm length not overall body height. Shannon Rogers and Chris Schwarz both have very long arms to go with their 6’4″ frames but seem to lean towards 28″ saws despite being 8″ taller than you.
    Thanks for the video.
    Cheers
    John

  4. I love that I am not the only 5’6″ person out there working with hand tools. Usually its ok, but I my full-size Disston can hit the floor when working on the sawbench, and I am tempted to try a dovetail saw with a smaller tote. Great video as always.

  5. Bob,
    A wonderful summary of beginning saws-thanks! I have a 10 tpi tenon saw filed for ripping. I wondering if a 12 tpi would leave smoother tenon faces and be easier to saw to the line. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Mark

    • Smoother cheeks? Probably, depending on the filing of the two. Easier to saw to a line? Not likely. I was able to saw a 1/16″ thick piece of veneer to the line with my 2-1/3 TPI frame saw at my club meeting last week. Sawing to the line is just something that takes practice and good form. Check out the Mechanics of Sawing podcast if you haven’t already. Then use your saws as much as possible and think about the mechanics when you saw. If you really want to improve your ability to saw to the line with your joinery saws, pick up a long crosscut saw or rip saw and do more of your rough sawing by hand (if you aren’t already). I’m really convinced that doing more sawing with the big saws helps tremendously with the joinery cuts. Try to be as accurate as you can with the rough cuts and your finish cuts will improve as a result.

      I sometimes make a game out of it. If I need to rip a board, I’ll try to rip it as perfectly as possible, then see how many strokes it takes with the try plane to clean up and true the saw cut. Try for as few plane swipes as possible. Same for “rough” crosscuts.

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