Episode #46: Entertainment Center Doors – Part 1

On today’s show I start working on the frame and panel doors for the entertainment center. These doors are lipped, meaning they are partially inset and partially overlay, and they also have a molding planed on the inside and outside edges of the rails and stiles. The solid wood panel in the outer doors is bookmatched, fielded and raised. The center doors have glass panels. In Part 1, I’ll discuss how the frames go together before the panel is added.


 

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21 thoughts on “Episode #46: Entertainment Center Doors – Part 1

  1. Thanks Bob! As Larry said, this was a wonderful early Christmas present. I’ve been hoping you’d do an episode on this kind of frame-and-panel work, which is so fundamental to traditional joinery.

    This is a bit off topic, but do you know of a good reference for making tombstone doors with hand tools? All the articles I’ve seen use a shaper or router table. I love the look of tombstone panels, but I don’t know the procedure for raising the top of the panel, or for sticking the matching section of the top rail.

    Thanks again for this video, and for being so generous with your knowledge and time. Merry Christmas.

  2. thanks for info on how you do it with hand tools. I’ve done just the simple flat panel as a beginner. Your video encourages me to try the more advanced molding/raise panel door in the future. thanks again

  3. Bob, thank you for sharing your knowledge through these videos. I find them extremely helpful, especially this latest and the tombstone set, as I am in the process of completing a cabinet with these type of doors.
    Thank you again, Merry Christmas, happy holidays and Happy New Year.

  4. I’ve subscribed to your podcast in itunes. I am not able to download this particular episode on my ipod classic. Any suggestions?

  5. Hey Bob,
    I have a question regarding the process of adjusting your M & T joints when a molding is involved. Aren’t you effectively shrinking the panel space by twice the depth of your grove when you make the adjustment? Was that factored in when you measured the shoulder to shoulder distance on your rails?

    • It’s accounted for when the shoulder to shoulder length of the rails is determined. If you don’t add twice the depth of the groove to the shoulder to shoulder dimension, the door frame will be too narrow for the opening. The panel dimension is unaffected really because it is transferred directly from the dry assembled frame. If the frame is right, the panel will be right. If the frame is narrow, the panel will be narrow too, but you should know this before the panel is even made because you should double check the dimensions of the dry assembled frame against the opening in the case prior to making the panel. The frame should be about 1/4″ wider than the opening in a lipped door like this and equal to (or a hair wider than) the opening for an inset door.

      • perfect. I was wondering the same thing. Thanks for the explanation, I don’t recall seeing this explained before. I thought the audio quality was fine, but everything was a bit out of focus a few times. 🙂 Still, your material is always worth more than I paid…

  6. Thanks for sharing, Bob, as always. Finally got around to watching this and I’m enjoying seeing it so far.

    Maybe it’s just me, but the sound seems to drop out between the 15 and 18 minute marks?

    • Continuing to watch the video, it does it in a couple other places for me, and then again for the rest of the video. Seems to cut out as you cut to different camera shots. Hope it’s just me!

      • Thanks Josh! I’ll check it out and let you know. I don’t remember having any problems when I previewed it, but then again I don’t sit and watch the whole episode completely through. I did try using a new camera for this episode (which was a huge fiasco; think I’ll go back to the old SD one). Maybe that has something to do with it.

  7. Just to update – I came back and checked a day or two after Bob’s posts in response to mine (about having troubles with the sound) and was still having the problem with the sound, and still in the same places during the video. (It was cutting out during certain camera cuts)

    Well, today I updated my Flash player; and the sound is working again. So maybe it was me all along; and I apologize for being a hassle. I’ve never seen a Flash update effect sound just in sections like that, but what do I know.

    Hope my post didn’t make anyone hold off on watching this.

    Again, thanks for the great resource and taking the time to share with us all, Bob.

    • Thanks for the update Josh! I’ve seen some strange things happen with folks trying to watch on different devices with different versions of browsers/players/plugins and countless combinations thereof. I’ll just say that I’m glad that I don’t work in IT.

  8. I really appreciated your explanation of the pros and cons of ploughing the groove before or after cutting the parts to length and cutting the mortise-and-tenon joints.

    It seems to me that you have a similar choice about when to stick the moulding. Why did you decide to do this after cutting the joinery? Wouldn’t it be easier to achieve a uniform profile if you plane the moulding while the parts are still one long board? Or is the idea to minimize the chance of damaging the profiled edge by leaving it square for as long as you can?

    • Indeed. In fact, ideally, for the best alignment of the groove and most consistent molding profile, you would plow the groove and stick the molding in one long board that you could get all four rails and stiles from. However, in this particular door, the molding profile is small and fragile. So I would hesitate to chop mortises after the molding was made for fear of accidentally cracking it off with an errant blow. In addition the bottom rail is significantly wider than the top rail and the stiles. So it would require ripping the top rail and the stiles narrower afterward and pretty much wasting almost a full inch of wood that wouldn’t be useful for much else. I tried to optimize my stock usage so I could get rails and stiles out of a single width. This meant ripping the wider board into two narrower sections, one wide enough to get bottom rails from and one wide enough to get top rails and stiles. This was the least wasteful of the wood in the board I was able to find. Sometimes as I’m sure you are aware, we compromise from the ideal to make the wood we are able to get work for our needs. Still, what you are suggesting is certainly one way to go for the most consistency between the four pieces.

      • Thanks Bob. These insights into the thought process are really helpful. Hand-tool methods give you a lot of flexibility, and I’m always impressed with the way you use that flexibility to work efficiently.

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