Episode #48: Entertainment Center Doors – Part 2

On today’s show I finish up the work on the frame and panel doors for the entertainment center. These doors are lipped, meaning they are partially inset and partially overlay, and they also have a molding planed on the inside and outside edges of the rails and stiles. The solid wood panel in the outer doors is bookmatched, fielded and raised. The center doors have glass panels. In Part 2, I’ll discuss how the fielded and raised panel is made, and complete the lip and outer molding on the assembled door.


 

Advertisements

10 thoughts on “Episode #48: Entertainment Center Doors – Part 2

  1. As always, a great video Bob. My rabbet plane is a #78 which only has a 1″ blade which looks a lot narrower than yours, using the technique you show here would it be asking for trouble trying to plane wider bevels, or should I plan on restricting things to 1″ bevels?

  2. Bob, if one wanted to achieve a consistently angled bevel without the need for eyeballing the degree to which to tilt the moving filletster, they could try the following. (I’ll use a 5 degree bevel example) (1) Dimension the panel ever so slightly oversized in height and width. (2) Cut the field ever so slightly oversized, with the filletster fence registered against the 90 deg. edges of the panel, as you demonstrate. (3) Using a fenced jointer plane splayed 5 deg. off vertical, shave off off each edge to 85 deg. (4) Plane each bevel with the filletster fence flatly registered against each of your new 85 deg. edges (and set wide enough to reach the edge of the field. (5) Joint and/or shoot each panel edge back to its original 90 deg. posture. Although it involves a couple of exta steps, it really does ensure very crisp corners for those among us who haven’t the steadiest of plane steering skills. And thanks so much for a terrific video podcast! Larry

    • Good tip Larry! I’d go one step further and suggest that the panel be sized perfectly prior to planing the bevels. There’s no need to plane the ends and edges back to 90 degrees because they will be hidden inside of the panel groove. So I wouldn’t worry about them being 5-10 degrees out of square. It won’t make a difference in the final assembly.

  3. Bob, when you book match panels the grain on one side of the panel goes in one direction and in the opposite direction on the other side. How do you go about final smoothing of the whole panel? Do you attack each side in the direction the grain is going and hope you don’t go past the glue line?

    • Yes, the grain will run in opposite directions on opposite sides of the glue line. To do the final smoothing of the field of the panel, I’ll plane the glue line down in opposite directions on either side of the glue line. If there is a ridge at the glue line that needs to be planed down just to flatten the whole thing, I’ll plane across the grain to level everything before smoothing. Planing across the grain ignores the grain direction and allows flattening the panel across the glue line and reversing grain without tearing out. Then I’ll finish everything up with a card scraper after planing the panel level. I’m also not ashamed to follow up the scraper with a cork hand sanding block and 180 or 220 grit sandpaper either.

Comments are closed.